A Treat in the Attic

Speak­ing with Matt Leigh­ninger this morn­ing I was reminded of one of my best tips for those look­ing for off­beat sights in Paris — the mil­it­ary mod­els at the Musée de l’Armée. armeeoutside.gifThe museum is a treas­ure. A grande prom­en­ade stretch­ing from the Seine leads up to the build­ing. The court­yards are filled with cap­tured and antique canons…hundreds of them. The can­ons are often works of the craftsmen’s art. Inside the museum are amaz­ing col­lec­tions of all things mil­it­ary stretch­ing from earli­est times to the present. There are guided tours, expos­i­tions and of course Napoleon’s Tomb adjoins the museum proper in L’Eglise du dôme. The museum is enorm­ous and can eas­ily occupy the bet­ter part of a day for the day.
canon.gifThe treat for the off­beat trav­eler though is in the attic. An enorm­ous salon stretches along the right wing of the museum on the fourth level. Although the salon is often not always access­ible to the pub­lic, when it is, it is well worth the trek up a few flights of stairs. In a dimly lit, attic space you will find scale mod­els of French mil­it­ary for­ti­fic­a­tions and eight­eenth and nine­teenth cen­tury fron­tier towns craf­ted to minute detail. The feel­ing of the space itself is rather spe­cial, but these works of art under glass are some­thing you will not find in such pro­fu­sion else­where.
The model are craf­ted right down to ped­es­tri­ans and tiny little canon emplace­ments on for­ti­fic­a­tions. They are lit with to appre­ci­ate a par­tic­u­lar time of day. You will find places such as Le Rochelle, or May­ence (Mainz today). invalides.gifThere are exquis­itely artistic rendi­tions of Vauban’s cut­ting edge for­ti­fic­a­tions util­iz­ing bom­bard­ment deflect­ing gla­cis or redoubts that cap­it­al­ise of being able to lend cov­er­ing fields of fire. Even if you are not fas­cin­ated by mil­it­ary engin­eer­ing, what you will find are true works of art in a stun­ning third dimen­sion.
Although hardly a side jour­ney, and you are prob­ably in the loc­ale for this in the first place, Napoleon’s tomb is awe inspir­ing. Rest­ing under­neath the soar­ing dome of the church, in a sunken arena, the red gran­ite cata­falque is only at least ten times the nor­mal sar­co­phagus! The sur­round includes friezes rep­res­ent­ing the many civil and social accom­plish­ments attrib­uted to the Empire and to Napo­leon. The remains of the King of Rome are also con­tained here, returned by Hitler dur­ing the Ger­man occu­pa­tion of Paris. You will find Jerome and Joseph’s tombs in adjoin­ing spaces along with other not­able mil­it­ary her­oes and the afore­men­tioned Vauban. The soar­ing spaces and the very strik­ing light­ing make a visit to the Hotel d’Invalides a mem­or­able exper­i­ence, but you’ll find a spe­cial treat wait­ing in the attic of the museum if your tim­ing is right.

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