Archives for category: Travel

In times past, Decem­ber vis­its to Munich have been warmed by new fallen snow and the glow­ing booths of the Christ­kindlmarkt. freiheit.jpgMunich this year had yet to see snow and the tem­per­at­ures of 7/8C and rain seemed some­how less fest­ive. People were still out in huge num­bers social­ising at the vari­ous mar­kets about town, but the lack of snow was a lit­eral damp­eron the occas­sion. So when I decided that the day was nigh to head off south to make my very first visit to the Konigschloss’s in the Schwangau, I was hope­ful. I expec­ted sim­ilar weather, but also enchant­ing archi­tec­ture and scenery.
As the slow regional train depar­ted Munich first thing in the morn­ing, Munich was a little grey, dry, but grey and over­cast.
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Atzinger Gästhaus — 12 Decem­ber 2007 — 14:00
I happened across some notes I jot­ted down while enjoy­ing some won­der­ful pork stew at this little res­taur­ant.
Munich is rather wet this year. It is a bit of a dampener — lit­er­ally. schwabbingLunchsmall.jpgThe thing about this place though is the won­der­ful bustle. There’s people out and about. Cer­tainly at the times of day that I am. It’s not crazy crowded — that would bother me a tad — it’s what I would describe as com­fort­ably kin­etic and a very diverse crowd. I am in the uni­ver­sity area of Schwab­bing today and there is a very dis­cern­ible under­grad aged pres­ence, but not over­whelm­ingly so. There always seems to be a younger com­pon­ent about, but it tends to be younger than uni­ver­sity age in the core. There seems to be less Eng­lish spoken since I was last here. Not a bad thing, merely an obser­va­tion. Am find­ing that I am strug­gling with Ger­man — this also more of a struggle than a dec­ade ago. Strangely have been mis­taken for French on a num­ber of occas­sions — strange. Guess it’s why my research people thought I speak Chinese with a Korean accent ;-)
The archi­tec­ture in the area is a strange dicho­tomy of kitschy-southern Ger­man Alpine — some more ornate with stucco or francy brick ped­i­ments and towers — oppos­ing ultra-modern glass and steel bru­tal­ity. The steel always dark with a bronzy pat­ina. The food is all so rich. How do these people stay thin???

Was out to the kino to catch some­thing that I could claim as some degree of expos­ure to the Ger­man media scene. lissi.jpgThe red­light dis­trict prob­ably could have provided some spe­cial, ;-) exper­i­ences, but went the other way. What are the kids watch­ing — some­thing Ger­man only. I found ‘Lissi und der wilde kaiser. It advert­ises itself as a par­odie of the clas­sic ‘Sissi’. I can only say that it takes ser­i­ous license. As it turns out, it’s aimed at a little more mature audi­ence than the nor­mal anim­ated show goer. I booked early. Cir­cum­stances. And with Ger­man effi­ciency had an assigned aisle and seat. Showed up close to time as I recalled that there is a suf­fi­cient period in advance with com­mer­cials, not trail­ers. Inside there’s three people in a 150 per­son theatre. My seat if right beside them. Another couple girls 13–15 come in and sit on the oth­er­side of my 13–15 year old male friends.
Two adults come in. They are the seats in front of my col­leagues. I can see that there is a sys­tem in the seat assign­ment process…but it sucks. Its starts from best seat and starts assign­ing in all dir­ec­tions. so you get 15 people all sit­ting right adja­cent to one another des­pite 100 extra seats. And my Ger­man cimen­a­go­ers just went with it. Read the rest of this entry »

One thing that really strikes me and I’m not sure I was as con­scious of it before was that Eng­lish holds a strange place here. There is the unique fas­cin­a­tion with cer­tain words that seem totem and sym­bolic rather than lit­eral. In many cases, the words chosen have no con­text in Eng­lish (don’t make sense), its almost as if they are per­ceived as more res­on­ant when writ­ten in Eng­lish. You see descript­ive terms on cloth­ing for example that are solid such as ski­ing on a jacket. Oth­er­wise there are of course many words that may even have ori­gin­ated from Ger­man roots and are now bor­rowed back from the Eng­lish. These have formed many of the words I have chosen to con­trib­ute to Geof­frey Rockwell’s Dic­tion­ary of Words in the Wild.

Well, here I sit at the Flughaf­fen Frank­furt. Its about 8am, and we got in a little ahead of sched­ule at 6:45am. munichairport.jpgNo sleep, but then I decided that that would be best in the end and forewent the sch­laf­fendrage (sic). Feel a wee bit fatigued, but not too bad yet. The 777 is a pretty sweet ride. The enter­tain­ment sys­tem has all the choices you could want for any length of flight. Seat pitch about the same, but it was one bumpy ride most of the way. Its just light­en­ing up in FRA and I have a rather lengthy lay­over. Tried to move to an earlier flight as there are Lufthansa flights for München every hour, but they tell me that with my fare, I would have to pay a hefty sur­charge. Not quite sure where the air­line eco­nomy is in that, but alas. We’ll just kick back for a bit and wait it out.
Frank­furt always seems (and is abso­lutely) removed from nation­al­ity. Every­one is on their way some­where or in between places. Its has that tran­si­ent feel­ing about it.
Saw the final Pir­ates of the Carib­bean, which was amus­ing then watched a string of sit­coms, includ­ing a Brit­ish one about pale­on­to­lo­gists deal­ing with dino­saurs in mod­ern day Eng­land and a US one called 10 items of Less which seemed quite good as well. A couple Office epis­odes, a Eureka and ‘Til death. All good.
Eng­lish is spoken in the air­port here more than Ger­man it seems, but then that seems to be the memory for here. About an hours walk to get where I am in the ter­minal. We shall see what we find in München.
No wire­less in the ter­minal that I can find.

Speak­ing with Matt Leigh­ninger this morn­ing I was reminded of one of my best tips for those look­ing for off­beat sights in Paris — the mil­it­ary mod­els at the Musée de l’Armée. armeeoutside.gifThe museum is a treas­ure. A grande prom­en­ade stretch­ing from the Seine leads up to the build­ing. The court­yards are filled with cap­tured and antique canons…hundreds of them. The can­ons are often works of the craftsmen’s art. Inside the museum are amaz­ing col­lec­tions of all things mil­it­ary stretch­ing from earli­est times to the present. There are guided tours, expos­i­tions and of course Napoleon’s Tomb adjoins the museum proper in L’Eglise du dôme. The museum is enorm­ous and can eas­ily occupy the bet­ter part of a day for the day. Read the rest of this entry »

One of the most fas­cin­at­ing stores in Paris and well worth a visit is Colette. The loc­a­tion is prime colette.jpg- along rue Saint-Honoré near the Place du Marche Saint-Honoré. Colette car­ries a won­der­fully eclectic invent­ory of things amaz­ing. cater­ing to a diverse cli­entèle from the curi­ous, the tour­ist to the glit­ter­atti, the hand-picked items in store are dis­played cre­at­ively and offer the finest of the trend­i­est. Read the rest of this entry »

metex.jpgHav­ing just returned from one of my favour­ite cit­ies in the world, I was fas­cin­ated to find a Paris Metro Vir­tual Exper­i­ence. This media-rich site offers won­der­ful his­tory of the Paris Metro and the oppor­tun­ity to take a vir­tual tour with static images and rel-time soundtrack along a num­ber of lines. Addi­tion­ally, the author of the site has com­pleted sta­tion by sta­tion archi­tec­tural mosa­ics of par­tic­u­lar lines. If you have ever had the oppor­tun­ity to travel on the metro (argu­ably one of the most effi­ciently run sys­tems in the world) this site may bring back some memor­ies. Read the rest of this entry »

munich.gifAs the weather­man fore­casts that the tem­per­at­ure will reach its hot­test thus far this year (28C is warm enough for me), I am link­ing to the rem­nants of a trip journal to Munich dur­ing winter 1998. The HTML is a wee bit broken, but its largely there — badly scanned pho­tos and campy com­ment­ary ;-) I am appre­ci­at­ing being cast back into the chilly warmth of a Christ­mas sea­son past. I used to take a week away in early Decem­ber and go to Munich for the Christ­mas Mar­ket there. I have fond memor­ies and really love Munich. Apart from a very strange sojourn there in 1990, didn’t ever make it there in the sum­mer until 2001. The Eng­lischer­garten, which I am sure I have men­tioned in a part post, is a magical place. But in the winter, Bav­aria and Munich becomes a won­drous winter king­dom. I am not cer­tain that my pic­tures cap­ture the essence, but I share them in hope that they might. I will have to clean up the HTML at some point — I was how­ever loathe to alter it. Its sim­pli­city is reflect­ive of where things were then. Rather like going back to your primary school draw­ings and ‘improv­ing’ them. Just doesn’t seem cricket ;-)

rumi.jpgWhen in Montreal, one must savour the fine eat­ing oppor­tun­it­ies and I am thrilled to report a gem of a spot. Rumi is a Persian/Sufi res­taur­ant loc­ated in Mile’s End at the corner of Hutchison and Fair­mount. It has a charm­ing ter­rasse and abso­lutely stun­ningly yummy food.

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