Archives for category: France

About a year ago I adop­ted the French Repub­lican Cal­en­dar for my per­sonal journ­alling. Why? Really for republican.jpg no other reason than to be dif­fer­ent. It offered me the oppor­tun­ity to learn the Repub­lican Cal­en­dar through prac­tise (a word-a-day sort of arrange­ment). The upheaval of the switch to a new sys­tem in France in 1795, caused con­fu­sion, was not widely adop­ted and in the end was dis­con­tin­ued by Napo­leon dur­ing the Empire. This was not before such ref­er­ences such as the Coup of 18 Bru­maire and lob­ster Ther­midor forever embed­ded the poet­i­cisme of the cal­en­dar­ing sys­tem in our his­tor­ical memory.
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From the realm of ‘too far fetched’ to be believed comes word that mem­bers of the UX, a shad­owy under­ground lounge.jpgorgan­isa­tion, have been cleared of charges in their dar­ing, but clandes­tine oper­a­tion to restore an antique clock at the Patheon in Paris. Accord­ing to Urb­an­Re­sources, the Unter­Gun­ther is “Swiss-French urban explorers team whose activ­ity is to restore the invis­ible parts of the her­it­age in total clandes­tin­ity.” This latest caper involved a year long pro­cess to secretly repair a huge clock in the Pan­theon which had fallen into dis­repair. Not only did they carry out this task undetec­ted over the space of a year, they built a lounge within the dome of the Pan­theon, wired into elec­trical cir­cuits clock.jpgand even installed a net­worked com­puter, all under the unsus­pect­ing nose of Pan­theon staff. When the Unter­Gun­ther cell fin­ished their res­tor­a­tion, they made the decision to reveal their work to ensure the clock received ongo­ing care. The Guard­ian has a story in Eng­lish on their acquit­tal.
The group were charged with tam­per­ing with a lock (their some­time means of ingress and egress) and the head of secur­ity for the Pan­theon took retire­ment. Des­pite the fact that the group has demon­strated the clock to have been fully restored, the staff at the Pan­theon have, for undis­closed reas­ons, chosen not to wind or cause the clock to oper­ate. Appar­ently the group is already at work on their next oper­a­tion. Encroyable!

Speak­ing with Matt Leigh­ninger this morn­ing I was reminded of one of my best tips for those look­ing for off­beat sights in Paris — the mil­it­ary mod­els at the Musée de l’Armée. armeeoutside.gifThe museum is a treas­ure. A grande prom­en­ade stretch­ing from the Seine leads up to the build­ing. The court­yards are filled with cap­tured and antique canons…hundreds of them. The can­ons are often works of the craftsmen’s art. Inside the museum are amaz­ing col­lec­tions of all things mil­it­ary stretch­ing from earli­est times to the present. There are guided tours, expos­i­tions and of course Napoleon’s Tomb adjoins the museum proper in L’Eglise du dôme. The museum is enorm­ous and can eas­ily occupy the bet­ter part of a day for the day. Read the rest of this entry »

It’s always amus­ing and often telling to com­pare where we are now to where we thought we’d be. Whether through sci-fi nov­els, advert­ise­ments for the house of the future, or in this case prints from an exhib­i­tion at the Bib­lio­thèque nationale de France (bnf), architectframed.jpgfacets of the future­think can provide a par­tic­u­larly pris­matic view of past pre­oc­cu­pa­tions. Paleo-Future Blog has a nice col­lec­tion of images of life in the year 2000 from the BnF. Nat­alie has weighed in on how pres­ci­ent these illus­tra­tions actu­ally are.
One thing that springs to my atten­tion is the sense that the future was going to free us from con­tact with the ground. Flight seems to make so much more pos­sible. Read the rest of this entry »

metex.jpgHav­ing just returned from one of my favour­ite cit­ies in the world, I was fas­cin­ated to find a Paris Metro Vir­tual Exper­i­ence. This media-rich site offers won­der­ful his­tory of the Paris Metro and the oppor­tun­ity to take a vir­tual tour with static images and rel-time soundtrack along a num­ber of lines. Addi­tion­ally, the author of the site has com­pleted sta­tion by sta­tion archi­tec­tural mosa­ics of par­tic­u­lar lines. If you have ever had the oppor­tun­ity to travel on the metro (argu­ably one of the most effi­ciently run sys­tems in the world) this site may bring back some memor­ies. Read the rest of this entry »

Steven BednarskiI atten­ded a great talk by Steven Bed­narski of St. Jerome’s Uni­ver­sity today. His CV lists UQAM, York, Toronto as places of exper­i­ence. His fram­ing ques­tion today: How does a social his­tor­ian make use of a research data­base?
Bed­narski explains that he was trained in the French school and con­siders him­self a storyteller by prac­tise. The leads to a valu­able reminder for me: the quant­it­at­ive his­tor­ian makes good use of his tools and may carry out exquis­ite ana­lysis of data­sets through many means (stat­ist­ical, spa­tial, SNA, etc) but what this allows him to do is con­struct the model and then use nar­rat­ive to illus­trate it through anec­dotal evid­ence. Read the rest of this entry »

The Gar­dens at the Pal­ais Royal are dis­tinctly dif­fer­ent from those at the Lux­em­bourg. A grand urban court­yard, the Pal­ais Royal have been a pub­lic garden from imme­di­ately prior to the Revolu­tion. The Pal­ais Royal was owned by the Duc d’Orleans, an aris­to­crat who sought pop­u­lar appeal. As today, the court­yard was sur­roun­ded by cloistered shops and atelier and served as a meet­ing spot for the ‘com­mon folk’.
Today, the garden itself is green and large and a won­der­ful spot to sit and read and be amongst a milieu.

Entry to the garden is through the pal­ais itself and the con­trast from the bust­ling street to the south could not be more extreme. You emerge from the con­crete jungle into a lush garden with a bor­der­ing walk­ing paths and a foun­tain in the centre that cre­ates two sep­ar­ate private areas. Chairs are provided and one can eas­ily while away the hours engrossed in a fine book.
At the south end of the garden is a rather dis­cord­ant sculp­ture fea­tur­ing black and white cyl­in­ders that have risen to vary­ing heights out of the patio itself. Impress­ive, artistic, taste­ful?? hard to say. Def­in­itely unique.
What is par­tic­u­larly nice about this garden is the oasis that it provides amongst the hustle and bustle of the sur­round­ing streets. Its a defined area and you are very con­scious of the sur­round­ings. But the lush­ness of the gar­dens them­selves allow you to eas­ily escape in appro­pri­ate diversion.

There’s a neat spot, a little off the beaten track, in Paris that I have some fond memor­ies of. It’s an oasis, small in scale and slow in pace. It’s not the sort of place that you find in the tour­ist dir­ect­or­ies and its not envel­oped by the legend of Paris vaca­tion­eer­ing. Bercy Vil­lage is a trendy upscale redevel­op­ment pro­ject in the 12th which fea­tures little shops, a cinema, bars and res­taur­ants, situ­ated within and without of a old wine mar­ket. Metro 14 — Cour St-Emilion lands you right in the vil­lage. Read the rest of this entry »

I have long wanted to jot down some thoughts about some of my favour­ite places in Paris. Mean­ing to even­tu­ally present these as an appro­pri­ately geor­e­fer­enced set with appro­pri­ate nav­ig­a­tion, for now I thought I would add them as simply blog entries. When I thought about where to start, it took me all of a second to ecide to begin with one of my abso­lutely favour­ite spots: The Lux­em­bourg Gardens.

There are a pleth­ora of won­der­ful gar­dens in Paris, but the Lux­em­bourg is a favour­ite for a vari­ety of great reasons:

  • Con­veni­ent
  • Adja­cent
  • Sus­tan­tial
  • Gor­geous
  • Clean
  • Safe

The gar­dens and the Pal­ais de Lux­em­bourg date the sev­en­teenth cen­tury and the con­struc­tion of the palace and sur­round­ings for Marie de Medici. The garden is sur­roun­ded by a wall and the garden/park itself is inter­sec­ted by ped­es­trian aven­ues or crushed stone. It is centred on a fountain/large grassy area (I can’t remem­ber which guise it is in right now). There are polite city forests and won­der­ful statu­ary sur­round­ing the main prom­en­ades.
jluxcpsmall.jpg
What I like most par­tic­u­larly about the gar­dens are the won­der­ful seats. They can be dragged to any place one desires and come in three fla­vours. There are the stand­ard upright, like a stand­ard chair type (really great in com­bin­a­tion with oth­ers for your feet), slightly reclined ones and the best: full reclined spa­cious metal lounges that are not unlike a Parisian ver­sion of an Adiron­dack deck chair. Get­ting to the garden early enough means you get your pick of both chair and spot and you can find a won­der­fully sheltered spot close to the wall around the cent­ral water, and spend the day read­ing, writ­ing and simply tak­ing in the ambi­ance of this very spe­cial envir­on­ment.
The cent­ral ‘plaza’ area always had this won­der­ful, huge wad­ing pool in which chil­dren ren­ted little sail­ing boats and pushed them about. Just a really nice ‘park’ kind of thing to do. How­ever, if I am to believe Google Maps (after the Kat­rina thing I am ever so slightly skep­tical), it looks as though this area has been filled in and is just a grassy area now. Maybe its a sea­sonal, annual thing…I sure hope that is the case.
The area around the Lux­em­bourg also makes it superbly situ­ated. In the Latin Quarter, near the Sor­bonne and the Pan­theon, it is also near the entrance to the Cata­combs (about them in a fur­ther entry). There are all sort of won­der­ful eat­ing oppor­tun­it­ies in the area, many of which re great takeaway food that you can return to the park with. I really like this little Japan­ese yakatori place, a three minute walk from my seat in the park.
On a more somber note, the wall to the north­east is the site where Mar­shall Michel Ney (the Bravest of the Brave) was executed in 1815 for his part in Napoleon’s return to power. This tragedy is not without its con­tro­versy, both due to the cir­cum­stances of Ney’s court mar­tial as well as the per­sist­ent rumours that he was able to escape to the United States fol­low­ing Napoleon’s second abdic­a­tion and lived out his days as a rural school mas­ter.
The Lux­em­bourg Gar­dens are eas­ily accessed, both by foot walk­ing south from the Seine hav­ing crossed the Pont Neuf, or via the Lux­em­bourg Metro sta­tion which depos­its you right at the north­east gate of the park.

6047095france-great-pyramidsff.jpgFrench archi­tect Jean-Pierre Houdin has unveiled a quite fas­cin­at­ing the­ory of pyr­amid con­struc­tion. Appar­ently based on a dec­ade of invest­ig­a­tion, he is able to pro­posed a series of con­cepts pro­pos­ing that internal con­struc­tion ramps allowed for the effi­cient and remark­able con­struc­tion of the Pyr­amid of Cheops. Addi­tion­ally he demon­strates the most effi­cient means by which the pyr­amidium was raised along with the pyr­amid itself and the con­struc­tion of the King’s cham­ber at the heart of the pyr­amid.
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